![]() It’s earthy and satisfying with a crust that’s crisp though and through. The wild mushroom pizza ($19) has the added complexity of sage, Pecorino and mozzarella. Those huge slices come from a 22-inch pie with a more substantial crust, so youngsters can more easily hold them in their hands. During the day, for the kids and teens in need of some sustenance, Howie’s offers a deal: $5 for a slice of cheese pizza and a Coke. The regular pies are 14 inches - large enough for two people to share. It has that nice fermented flavor of artisan bread, and there is a variance of textures that holds your interest bite after bite. This is a pizza crust with real character. The crust is already a winner in my book. He’s still making subtle tweaks to the bread flour-dough, which takes two days to mix and proof before being turned into pies that are baked in a gas-fired brick oven at 600 degrees for 5-6 minutes. “I’ve been cooking 30 years, and I’ve never been perplexed as I have been by pizza dough,” says Bulka, who invited me in for a taste last week. It’s a living, breathing, finicky mass that can be as unpredictable as Kanye West. ![]() It may have opened less than two weeks ago, but Howie’s is already selling up to 250 pies a day now and packing in the crowds for his version of East Coast pizza modeled after Frank Pepe’s of New Haven, Conn., which Bulka worships.īut dough is a funny thing. “The pizza talks to me now,” says Chef Howard Bulka of the just-opened Howie’s Artisan Pizza in Palo Alto’s Town & Country Village.Īfter decades of running fine-dining restaurants in the Bay Area, Bulka has what he has always dreamed of - a top-notch pizzeria he can proudly call his own. And when the wheel of a pizza cutter slices through it, there’s a distinctive “ crack, crack, crackle” sound. It’s thinner, yet still crisp, in the center. ![]() It’s high and puffy on the edges, with airy, rolling caverns that provide great chew and crunch. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |